Xunpu, a fishing village in Quanzhou, a city in southeast China's Fujian Province, dates back more than 1,000 years. In Xunpu, flowers are found not just in gardens, but crowning the heads of the local fisher women. The traditional floral headdress — known as zanhuawei — worn by local women provides a burst of color to the coastal village. Dubbed "garden on the head," the exquisite floral adornment stands as a living testament to Quanzhou's enduring cultural legacy. In 2008, Xunpu Women's Customs, including zanhuawei, was added to the items on China's list of national intangible cultural heritage.' fill='%23FFFFFF'%3E%3Crect x='249' y='126' width='1' height='1'%3E%3C/rect%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/g%3E%3C/svg%3E)
'Blooming' History
In China, the tradition of wearing flowers in the hair dates back more than 2,000 years. During the Han Dynasty (202 BC-AD 220), artisans crafted seasonal blossoms into headdresses with colored silk threads. During the Tang Dynasty (618-907), high buns, adorned with exuberant peony flowers, became the height of fashion. During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), the custom of floral headdresses gained widespread popularity, among both men and women; these headdresses were embraced not only by the imperial court, but also by ordinary people, throughout the country.
In Quanzhou, the floral headdress tradition took root during the Song Dynasty, fueled by the city's thriving maritime trade. As the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road, ancient China's maritime channel for trade, communications and cultural exchanges with other countries, Quanzhou was known as "the largest port in the East" during the Song and Yuan (1271-1368) dynasties. During its heyday, the port maintained bustling commercial ties with more than 100 countries or regions, through which aromatic products and exotic flower species reached the city, and, over time, inspired local customs.
Gradually, local women cultivated a distinctive aesthetic look, the wearing of zanhuawei, a fusion of local customs and exotic influences, brought by the thriving maritime trade. The tradition endures to this day, and it continues to grow in popularity. Xunpu, situated at the heart of the ancient port, serves as a microcosm of this unique aesthetic tradition.
Speak of Hope
Earning reputations for their resilience and hard work, the fisher women of Xunpu are renowned for harvesting and selling high-quality seafood. Even when simply sitting by the shore and prying open oysters, they still wear their floral headdresses, with unwavering care. The vibrant zanhuawei — a symbol of hope and beauty — expresses the women's wishes for a better life, despite the hardships of their daily toils.
Before stepping out each morning, a Xunpu woman coils her hair into a round bun, secures it horizontally with a hairpin — traditionally made of fishbone or wood — ties it with a red string, and adorns it with a dazzling array of seasonal flowers. Seasonal blooms, such as jasmine, magnolia, camellia, tuberose, chrysanthemum and Arabian jasmine, are the most common choices.
Flowers are the soul of zanhuawei, as their number and variety reflect the significance of the occasion. A simple coil, with one or two flowers, is for everyday wear. For festivals, weddings and other important events, the headdress is crafted with a dense cluster of blooms, sometimes as many as five to seven garlands wrapped around the bun, creating a veritable garden on the head.
Keeping Heritage Alive
The fisher women of Xunpu have remained steadfast in their commitment to preserving zanhuawei heritage, while exploring new ways to keep it alive. Today, the mission is being carried forward by people of all ages, from veteran inheritors to young enthusiasts, and each in their own way.
Cai Ailian, in her seventies, is a representative inheritor of Xunpu Women's Customs, and a leading figure in preserving the craft of making zanhuawei. When she was young, Cai learned the skills of coiling hair and arranging flowers from her mother.
Now, she often serves as a judge in zanhuawei-making competitions; in part, it is her way of helping advance standardization of the craft. She also offers hands-on sessions at local schools, during which she introduces younger generations to Xunpu's distinctive culture. When folk performances are held in the village, she helps style the performers' hair.
Tucked away in a narrow alley of Xunpu, Cai's studio houses a rich collection of traditional Xunpu attire and accessories, including hairpins and flower strings. Whenever visitors stop by, Cai picks up her tools and demonstrates the zanhuawei-making craft, so her visitors can appreciate the beauty of the heritage.
Huang Liyong, president of Fengze District Zanhuawei Folk Culture Association, and a cultural ambassador for Xunpu Women's Customs, was born and raised in Xunpu. She still remembers her grandmother coiling her hair into a round bun, tying it with a red string, and tucking flowers all around it. "With flowers in your hair, life is sweet, no matter the hardship," said Huang's grandmother. Huang currently runs a zanhuawei shop in the village, and she promotes the heritage to visitors, while she wears traditional attire.
Huang Fangfang has helped craft Xunpu women's attire and floral headdresses for decades. More than 20 years ago, she assumed responsibility for the family's legacy from her father. She has since dedicated herself to studying her father's collection of historical Xunpu garments and headdresses, while honing her skills under his instruction. She has made innovations; for example, developing hair-coiling tools and flower-tucking techniques, each of which resonates with contemporary aesthetics.
Huang Fangfang and her father now run a workshop, where young visitors, both from home and abroad, can experience Xunpu attire and floral headdresses. They also craft traditional stage costumes for local kindergartens and primary schools. "I hope more young people will do their bit to help this tradition of Quanzhou gain wider recognition," Huang Fangfang says.
Huang Xinyi, a 16-year-old cultural ambassador for Xunpu Women's Customs, was raised on the folk tales shared by the women members of her family. She has served as a volunteer guide, sharing Xunpu's cultural stories with visitors. She has participated in cultural exchanges, both at home and abroad, to help the heritage receive wider recognition and appreciation.
"During a cultural exchange overseas, I showed up in Xunpu attire, with floral headdress adorning my hair. Many overseas Chinese gathered around me. One elderly man, with his hair completely white, had tears in his eyes. He told me, 'Seeing the flowers in your hair feels like coming home.' That moment left a lasting impression on me. It strengthened my resolve to keep this tradition alive, and to share it with the world," says Huang Xinyi.
Photos from Interviewees
(Women of China English Monthly August 2026)
Editor: Wang Shasha
