Autumn transforms Shexian County into a living canvas of color and tradition. In the county, tucked away in the southern region of east China's Anhui Province, the harvest season ushers in a centuries-old farming custom, known as shaiqiu, or the drying of crops in autumn. This time-honored practice turns Yangchan, a mountain village, nestled in the folds of Shexian's green hills, into a scene as vivid as an oil painting.
But Shexian offers far more than a picturesque harvest. Widely recognized as the "Hometown of Hui-style Culture," this ancient county preserves the very essence of Hui-style culture, one of China's most-distinctive regional traditions. Its natural beauty — and profound cultural significance — have made Shexian an increasingly compelling destination for travelers, from around the world.
Tapestry of Harvest, Heritage
Dating back more than 2,200 years, Shexian, in the city of Huangshan, was established during the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC). Located at the junction of Xin'an River and Mount Huangshan, a natural and cultural World Heritage Site, Shexian blends beautiful natural scenery with rich, Hui-style cultural heritage.
Hui-style architecture, a hallmark of this cultural tradition, is characterized by white walls, black-tiled roofs and delicate, decorative carvings in brick, stone and wood. This architectural style, known for its elegance and refined simplicity, dates back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279).
Yangchan, however, offers a striking contrast to the familiar white-walled, black-tiled dwellings of Huizhou style. Here, hundreds of tulou — literally meaning earthen buildings — dot the hillside. Built from local red soil and bluestone, this centuries-old settlement is a rare sight in southern Anhui.
Autumn is when the village truly comes alive. During harvest season, villagers lay their crops on flat bamboo baskets, set on their rooftops and/or balconies. The tradition is known locally as shaiqiu. Red chili peppers, golden corn, orange pumpkins and white chrysanthemums create a vivid mosaic against the warm earthen walls.
Sunrise and sunset are the ideal times to experience the village's picturesque beauty, as the earthen walls glow in golden light. With swirling mist and rolling mountains adding to its charm, Yangchan resembles a landscape painting come to life, which is alluring to visitors and photographers, from across the country.
Where Hui-Style Culture Lives
Huizhou Ancient City, nestled in the heart of Shexian, has a history of more than 2,200 years. As one of China's four best-preserved ancient cities — alongside Lijiang, in Yunnan Province, Pingyao, in Shanxi Province and Langzhong, in Sichuan Province — it holds a distinguished place in the country's cultural heritage.
For more than a millennium, the city served as the political, economic and cultural center of the ancient Huizhou region. Now, the ancient city boasts well-preserved, traditional Hui-style buildings, which date back to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing dynasties (1644-1911). The exceptional ancient architectural complexes have earned the city the reputation as a living museum of Hui-style architecture.
As they stand atop the ancient city wall, visitors can look down on an intricate maze of cobblestone lanes and traditional Hui-style dwellings, where white-washed walls and dark-tiled roofs stretch as far as the eye can see. Iconic horse-head gables rise, one after another, against the distant hills, and they create a scene that embodies the tranquil elegance of a traditional Chinese ink painting.
Xuguo Stone Archway stands in the center of the city. The archway was built in 1584 in honor of Xu Guo, a prominent official during the Ming Dynasty. With its rare, octagonal structure, meticulously carved granite pillars, and intricate stone carvings, the archway exemplifies the finest achievements of Hui-style architecture. In imperial China, memorial archways were erected to honor individuals of outstanding virtue and/or achievements, and Xuguo Stone Archway remains one of the most remarkable examples of this tradition.
Hui-style architecture is also celebrated for its intricate stone, wood and brick carvings, which adorn the beams, windows and pillars of local dwellings. The carvings depict auspicious symbols and scenes from folklore and history. Through this craftsmanship, the people of ancient Huizhou embedded their aesthetic values and moral teachings into the very fabric of their homes — making their buildings not only more beautiful, but also a medium for passing down cultural values.
Beyond its architecture, Huizhou is also known for its merchants. The Hui merchants rose to prominence during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Known for their diligence and business acumen, they accumulated substantial wealth and played a significant role in the economy of ancient China. Hui merchants placed great emphasis on education: Successful merchants often funded schools and encouraged their offspring to study for the imperial examinations; as such, they integrated commercial success and scholarly pursuits.
Doushan Street, a narrow lane tucked against the slope of Doushan Mountain, offers a quieter glimpse into the city's past. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, many wealthy Hui merchants made their homes along the street. Today, the street retains much of its original character — with well-preserved residences, ancestral halls and brick carvings lining the cobblestone path — giving visitors a sense of stepping back in time.
Beyond the ancient city, villages, scattered across the countryside of Shexian, preserve the scholarly legacy and architectural heritage of ancient Huizhou. Among the villages, Xiongcun and Xucun provide a window into the richness of the region's cultural heritage.
Xiongcun, located on the banks of the Xin'an River, was home to the influential Cao clan — a merchant family that produced a great number of officials and scholars during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The clan's rise to prominence was closely tied to Zhushan Academy, a private school founded in 1755. The academy features tranquil courtyards, dotted with ancient trees and elegant pavilions, and it still retains the quiet ethos of scholarly pursuit, a tradition that shaped the Cao clan for generations.
Xucun, which has a history of more than 1,800 years, stands as a living archive of Huizhou-style architecture. It is home to more than 100 ancient Hui-style buildings, built during different periods since the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368). The village is often described as an open-air museum, where visitors can trace centuries of architectural evolution during an afternoon walk.
Shexian presents a journey through the very essence of Huizhou-style culture. Here, the past is not merely a distant relic to be observed from afar — it is a living presence, woven into the very fabric of everyday life. Visitors to Shexian will find themselves immersed in a world where history, nature and tradition coexist in quiet harmony.
Photos from VCG
(Women of China English Monthly September 2026)
Editor: Wang Shasha
